We had a discussion a while back about foul odors/rotting water in the ballast tank.
To sanitise your ballast tank:
1. Calculate how many gals it holds from your owners manual (I can't do this for you as we are metric)
2. The charts below are for 5,000gal so scale it to your Ballast Tank capacity.
3. Superchlorinate the Ballast Tank as per rates below.
NOTE: The 3 different products are available at your local pool shop or Hardware Store, and the packet will be clearly named. Ask advice if you need it.
4. Seal Ballast tank (put stopper in) and leave for 24hrs. Any 'chlorine' smell is in fact chlorimines which are best described as the dead bacteria from the chlorine action
5. If you wish to test the chlorine levels, then buy a plastic bottle of test strips. Dunk one down the Ballast tank hole, remove and read off against the chart on the side of the bottle. If you want to test water at bottom of Ballast tank, take a thin but long hose, put you figer over the end (seal it) then feed it down in to the ballast tank. When it hits the bottom, release your finger (seal), let the hose fill, then re-seal with finger, remove hose, hold over small jug, and relaease finger,(seal) and water from the bottom of tank will flow out for you to test.
Superchlorination (10ppm) is to kill ALL bugs in your water, while Chlorination (1ppm) is to maintain clean water.
Superchlorination Chart
Amount needed to introduce 10ppm
Type of Chrloine to add to 5,000 gal (19Kl) Water
Sodium Hypochloride: 1.75 qts (1.7L)
Dichlor 11oz (311gm)
Calcium Hypochloride 10oz (284gm)
Chlorination Chart
Amount Required to introduce 1ppm
Sodium Hypochloride 5.5oz (163ml)
Dichlor 1oz (28.3gm)
Calcium Hypochloride .75oz (21.2gm)
May I suggest the best way to clean a dirty Ballast Tank, if you can't remove it from the water, drain it, and leave it open to the elements is to:
1. Empty the tank by motoring
2. Refill with 'new' water
3. Superchlorinate
4. Maintain at Chlorination (1ppm) levels
5. Use test strips...you will get a big surprise at just how fast chlorine dissappears in dirty water
(took me a while to get this together. Had to find a chart in gals/quarts/oz.
Cheers
Phillip
Sanitizing Ballast Tank.
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Phillip
- First Officer
- Posts: 330
- Joined: Fri Nov 26, 2004 11:49 pm
- Location: Sunshine Coast Australia 2000 26X Tohatsu 50hp
Ron:
Those discs you speak of "internationally" come in 2 different sizes. Initially one was for spa pools, the other for swim pools.
To answer your question, the disc should still be in some sort of container. Either a sealed tube or a sealed bucket.
Read the label on the bucket to determine just what 'type' you have.
Go to my chart to get the 'amount'.
If you have to break one of these tablets, try this:
1.Put a tablet inside a good heavy plastic bag, and fold up
2.Cover it top and bottom with a towel/rag (for padding)
3.Use a blunt item, like a coal chissel, hitting it with a hammer, gently, to break it in half, then quarter etc. (try not to puncture the plastic bag....that is what the towel is for).
4.Grab the wifes kitchen scales and weigh out what you want. If the bits are too big to fit down the vent hole in the ballast tank, put them in another plastic bag and gently break them up with a hammer)
5. Roll up the plastic bag with the remains of the tablet in and put it back in to the "correct" container...the one you took it out.....that is MOST IMPORTANT
6. Give the wifes scales a good wash, then put it thru the dishwasher.
Note: go for the Superchlorination rate.
Let me know how you go.
Cheers
Phillip
Those discs you speak of "internationally" come in 2 different sizes. Initially one was for spa pools, the other for swim pools.
To answer your question, the disc should still be in some sort of container. Either a sealed tube or a sealed bucket.
Read the label on the bucket to determine just what 'type' you have.
Go to my chart to get the 'amount'.
If you have to break one of these tablets, try this:
1.Put a tablet inside a good heavy plastic bag, and fold up
2.Cover it top and bottom with a towel/rag (for padding)
3.Use a blunt item, like a coal chissel, hitting it with a hammer, gently, to break it in half, then quarter etc. (try not to puncture the plastic bag....that is what the towel is for).
4.Grab the wifes kitchen scales and weigh out what you want. If the bits are too big to fit down the vent hole in the ballast tank, put them in another plastic bag and gently break them up with a hammer)
5. Roll up the plastic bag with the remains of the tablet in and put it back in to the "correct" container...the one you took it out.....that is MOST IMPORTANT
6. Give the wifes scales a good wash, then put it thru the dishwasher.
Note: go for the Superchlorination rate.
Let me know how you go.
Cheers
Phillip
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Phillip
- First Officer
- Posts: 330
- Joined: Fri Nov 26, 2004 11:49 pm
- Location: Sunshine Coast Australia 2000 26X Tohatsu 50hp
Sorry, missed the 'real' question;
Hard to say how often. Depends on the state of your water and what is inside the ballast tank. Once a year won't hurt, in fact once every couple of months won't hurt.
You can either treat the water as a preventative measure, or treat it to rectify a problem when it occurs.
Seem to recall Frank making a comment in past week after he did it. Maybe he could mention why he did it and what his results were.
Cheers
Phillip
Hard to say how often. Depends on the state of your water and what is inside the ballast tank. Once a year won't hurt, in fact once every couple of months won't hurt.
You can either treat the water as a preventative measure, or treat it to rectify a problem when it occurs.
Seem to recall Frank making a comment in past week after he did it. Maybe he could mention why he did it and what his results were.
Cheers
Phillip
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Frank C
I intended the boat to have empty ballast at my new slip. The following week though, my empty tank was now full. I discovered that my gate valve was admitting seawater. After sitting that way for a month, the ballast tank odor was almost enough to gag. I knew that meant things were attaching to the tank's interior, things I'd not invited.
After a nice sail one afternoon I elected to empty the tank, at speed, before returning to the slip. Then using some less technical discussions, I SWAGGED that 2 cups of household bleach should be enough to superChor the nasty tank. I felt it would be better done with fresh water, so I stretched a fresh water hose to the ballast vent hole and brought the tank level up to within a couple of inches below the vent. Midway through that filling process, I dumped in my 16 ounces of Clorox bleach. By process-end, the tank was emitting a strongly-evident chlorine smell.
The result now (weeks later) is a nicely clean smelling air from the ballast vent. It no longer smells of chlorine. From reading Phillip's explanations, I'd guess that my superChlor concentration has died-off along with the bugs. Only a very small amount of seawater can transit the leaky valve since I had mostly filled the tank with fresh water - seems it's immaterial.
FWIW ... it takes a very long time to run 150 gallons of fresh water into that little vent hole ... maybe 90 minutes. It's a bit nerve-wracking too, since I surely wanted to avoid overflowing that stuff into the bilge. All's well that ends well~!
After a nice sail one afternoon I elected to empty the tank, at speed, before returning to the slip. Then using some less technical discussions, I SWAGGED that 2 cups of household bleach should be enough to superChor the nasty tank. I felt it would be better done with fresh water, so I stretched a fresh water hose to the ballast vent hole and brought the tank level up to within a couple of inches below the vent. Midway through that filling process, I dumped in my 16 ounces of Clorox bleach. By process-end, the tank was emitting a strongly-evident chlorine smell.
The result now (weeks later) is a nicely clean smelling air from the ballast vent. It no longer smells of chlorine. From reading Phillip's explanations, I'd guess that my superChlor concentration has died-off along with the bugs. Only a very small amount of seawater can transit the leaky valve since I had mostly filled the tank with fresh water - seems it's immaterial.
FWIW ... it takes a very long time to run 150 gallons of fresh water into that little vent hole ... maybe 90 minutes. It's a bit nerve-wracking too, since I surely wanted to avoid overflowing that stuff into the bilge. All's well that ends well~!
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tangentair
- Admiral
- Posts: 1234
- Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2007 11:59 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26M
- Location: Highland Park, IL ...07M...Merc 50 BF...Mila K
I wonder if the benefit of Frank’s method to those of us whose boats are sitting on trailers out weights the stress of loading the ballast tank, and dumping the water on the lawn/driveway/garage? It seems a simple abet time consuming task, but even a well blocked trailer is going to groan under the additional (150 x 8.3) 1245 lbs of weight.
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Frank C
I never noticed any problem with tank oder when the boat was trailered. Even after 3 weeks in the Bay, storing it with the gate valve cracked open, plus the vent open, seemed to quickly air-dry and kill any bugs. I never left the gate valve opened by more than a crack, wanting to avoid any critters or insects taking up residence.
If I wanted to treat the ballast tank on-trailer, I wouldn't worry much about the extra weight. Many owners pull the fully loaded & ballasted trailer up the ramp, which seems much greater abuse. Could be wrong, but IMO, just leaving the trailer sitting still in the backyard isn't a terribly excess load for a day or so. I believe Catigale's done this several times.
If I wanted to treat the ballast tank on-trailer, I wouldn't worry much about the extra weight. Many owners pull the fully loaded & ballasted trailer up the ramp, which seems much greater abuse. Could be wrong, but IMO, just leaving the trailer sitting still in the backyard isn't a terribly excess load for a day or so. I believe Catigale's done this several times.
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Frank C
CAVEAT: I always seem to forget that my experience occurs in NorCal's climate, where average humidity hovers around 65% for 9 months per year.Frank C wrote:I never noticed any problem with tank oder when the boat was trailered. Even after 3 weeks in the Bay, storing it with the gate valve cracked open, plus the vent open, seemed to quickly air-dry and kill any bugs.
I've experienced very little problem with cabin moisture, cabin sweating, cabin mildew, etc. One exception to that, during season's early & late cusps, sleeping aboard does induce excess cabin moisture. I usually leave the front hatch elevated by about one inch to provide some cross-venting.
Anyhow, my success with trailer-drying of the ballast tank might not be true in more humid locales (as always, YMMV!). In a more humid area I'd expect that a mild, fresh water chlorination of the tank for a day or two should sanitize the tank just fine. I find amazing that just 16 oz. of a ~5% solution can so thoroughly treat 150 gallons of water, given the "bio-spheric culture" that I began with. Next time, I might just try treating the seawater directly.
Any observations, Phillip??
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Morimaro
- Chief Steward
- Posts: 86
- Joined: Mon Mar 15, 2004 8:23 am
- Location: Wokingham Berkshire U.K.
Bleach in ballast tank
What a coincidence, this weekend for the first time in 8 years we had a smelly ballast tank.
So the admiral put a cup of household bleach into the full tank before we went out for a sail.
Had a sail (very little wind) dropped the ballast and cruised the beaches home, let the tank fill on our mooring and the smell has gone.
I think because we are on a tidal river mooring where we moved to this season it means depending on the tidal flow we get "fresh" rising tide water or "muddy" ebbing tide water, so we need to keep a nose on the tank and use the bleach a bit more.
Cheers
Morris
So the admiral put a cup of household bleach into the full tank before we went out for a sail.
Had a sail (very little wind) dropped the ballast and cruised the beaches home, let the tank fill on our mooring and the smell has gone.
I think because we are on a tidal river mooring where we moved to this season it means depending on the tidal flow we get "fresh" rising tide water or "muddy" ebbing tide water, so we need to keep a nose on the tank and use the bleach a bit more.
Cheers
Morris
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Phillip
- First Officer
- Posts: 330
- Joined: Fri Nov 26, 2004 11:49 pm
- Location: Sunshine Coast Australia 2000 26X Tohatsu 50hp
I have never treated sea water, but I do treat water that has been fertilized (sort of salt based) every day of my life.
Having spent today thinking about it, I reckon treating sea water the same as fresh water, would have the same result.
There is only one way to find out of course, when the ballast tank is full of sea water, tip your liquid bleach/chlorine in and leave it for same period, and see how you go.
Personally, I can't see why it won't work.....hang on, isn't there a chemist or someone with a degree in chemistry in the house?
Morimao:
your coming to the point I havn't touched on.....what is actually "in" the mud to create the odor. It could be sewage (raw or part treated), decaying vegetation (in is actual rotted state..so it is not actually recognisable), it could be algae, it could be water that has lost its oxygen (some clown dropped an empty Endosulphan container in a waterway). There may be 100 different reasons.
The point is, sanitize your tank with your bleach. Problem solved.
Frank:
I live in the sub tropics....(400km south of the Tropic of Capricorn) so we experience very high humidty for probably 8mths of the yr.
Yes, after dawn we do get moisture from the house roof flowing in to the rainwater tank...very little...but it happens....sort of condensation in reverse.
I always thought that would happen to my ballast tank too, so my logic is, leave the gate valve open on the boat.
If insects get in (and we have a wide variety of wasps, snakes, spiders that will do just that) if it worries you, then cut the foot off your missus panty hose and put it over the opening with a rubber band around it. If they don't worry you, then don't bother...you will drown them when you fill the tank.
I cover mine (wife dosn't wear panty hose (to hot...the weather that is!!)so I use her old mesh curtain), as the last thing I need is a red-belly'd black coming out of the forward vent when I am underway.
The crunch is this. never add too much of your chlorine
I think you chlorax at 5% chlorine will be a dilution of Sodium Hypochloride I listed above, and that should be around 12-15% chlorine before dilution.
The charts I made up above, I copied from an American product I bought specifically for this board.
I needed test strips, and the American ones at $7 for 50 (a bit expensive)had a chart that you guys would understand.
If you want to get technical, go buy some and try them....they are good....I use them every day.
Hope I havn't missed something again.
Hope this helps
Cheers
Phillip
Having spent today thinking about it, I reckon treating sea water the same as fresh water, would have the same result.
There is only one way to find out of course, when the ballast tank is full of sea water, tip your liquid bleach/chlorine in and leave it for same period, and see how you go.
Personally, I can't see why it won't work.....hang on, isn't there a chemist or someone with a degree in chemistry in the house?
Morimao:
your coming to the point I havn't touched on.....what is actually "in" the mud to create the odor. It could be sewage (raw or part treated), decaying vegetation (in is actual rotted state..so it is not actually recognisable), it could be algae, it could be water that has lost its oxygen (some clown dropped an empty Endosulphan container in a waterway). There may be 100 different reasons.
The point is, sanitize your tank with your bleach. Problem solved.
Frank:
I live in the sub tropics....(400km south of the Tropic of Capricorn) so we experience very high humidty for probably 8mths of the yr.
Yes, after dawn we do get moisture from the house roof flowing in to the rainwater tank...very little...but it happens....sort of condensation in reverse.
I always thought that would happen to my ballast tank too, so my logic is, leave the gate valve open on the boat.
If insects get in (and we have a wide variety of wasps, snakes, spiders that will do just that) if it worries you, then cut the foot off your missus panty hose and put it over the opening with a rubber band around it. If they don't worry you, then don't bother...you will drown them when you fill the tank.
I cover mine (wife dosn't wear panty hose (to hot...the weather that is!!)so I use her old mesh curtain), as the last thing I need is a red-belly'd black coming out of the forward vent when I am underway.
The crunch is this. never add too much of your chlorine
I think you chlorax at 5% chlorine will be a dilution of Sodium Hypochloride I listed above, and that should be around 12-15% chlorine before dilution.
The charts I made up above, I copied from an American product I bought specifically for this board.
I needed test strips, and the American ones at $7 for 50 (a bit expensive)had a chart that you guys would understand.
If you want to get technical, go buy some and try them....they are good....I use them every day.
Hope I havn't missed something again.
Hope this helps
Cheers
Phillip
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pokerrick1
- Admiral
- Posts: 2269
- Joined: Sun Aug 27, 2006 7:20 pm
- Sailboat: Venture 23
- Location: Las Vegas, NV (Henderson, near Lake Mead)
Exactly. Keep a few of these on board (behind the head in a small bucket?). Pour one in every time you fill the ballast tank after it has been empty - - - and every few months if you don't empty it much and usually keep it full (as I do). I have never had ANY odor problems (well, in the Mac, anyway).RandyMoon wrote:We bought several Chlorox "traveler" size bottles. I assume they are about 12 ounces.
No bad smells.
Rick
