Can anyone help identify this 26M Part?

[OverEasy]

TaDa!!!
🪄
You done done it JimmyT!

[Jimmyt]

Well, as my daddy used to say, "even a blind hog finds an acorn once in awhile"...

[StuNorman]

Hi JimmyT,

Thanks. I initially though steering linkage too but the piece is shaped like an umbrella handle, whereas all the steering linkages I have seen curve to right angle.

It is the earlier version...

Brilliant...Thanks you JimmyT...I wont throw it away now!

Is it recommended to upgrade to the latest variant and if so, what are the benefits? Presumably the upgrade makes it better.

Thanks for your efforts. Do you have any additional photos how this all joins together? My boat is stripped bare and I have to reinstall everything from scratch and have no idea what the old variant steering mechanism looked like until now.

[Jimmyt]

Well, if you have an extra $170 laying around, you can order the motor quick disconnect kit. It will get you the later link while upgrading you to the quick disconnect - which, I believe, greatly enhances the sailing experience. When you're trying to steer with a big outboard flopping around, it really takes a bit of the joy out of the experience.

Looking at the photo of the earlier linkage, I see no reason to use a J configuration rather than an L. But, there is no real advantage to using an L over the J either... The important point is the quick disconnect part.

http://shop.bwyachts.com/product-p/5712-1m0.htm

I can get you pics of my 2013 setup, but I don't have a 2008, and can't document all of the differences - sorry.

In fact, I had to google to find the pic of the earlier linkage to convince you that it was, in fact, your motor steering linkage.

But, if you're willing to post pics of what you have, I'm sure that we can all figure out. There are a lot of smart guys hanging around in the forum. And, I'll try to help, too.

[DaveC426913]

Looking at the photo of the earlier linkage, I see no reason to use a J configuration rather than an L. But, there is no real advantage to using an L over the J either... The important point is the quick disconnect part.

http://shop.bwyachts.com/product-p/5712-1m0.htm

I just discovered that they have this for the X:
http://shop.bwyachts.com/product-p/5712-1x0.htm
It looks the same as yours.

I'd really like to customize this so I don't have to leave the helm to operate it.
On your steering, are the balls pointing up, or are they pointing horizontally?
It looks like, in order to be captured by the socket on the end of the bar, they would have to be pointing horizontally.

[OverEasy]

Does anyone have a picture of the quick connect installed on an X?

[Jimmyt]

Looking at the photo of the earlier linkage, I see no reason to use a J configuration rather than an L. But, there is no real advantage to using an L over the J either... The important point is the quick disconnect part.

http://shop.bwyachts.com/product-p/5712-1m0.htm

I just discovered that they have this for the X:
http://shop.bwyachts.com/product-p/5712-1x0.htm
It looks the same as yours.

I'd really like to customize this so I don't have to leave the helm to operate it.
On your steering, are the balls pointing up, or are they pointing horizontally?
It looks like, in order to be captured by the socket on the end of the bar, they would have to be pointing horizontally.

This is mine. Motor ball is down, steering link ball is up. You only disconnect the steering link end and snap it on the stationary pedestal.

On the X, the link is on the rudder tie-rod instead of coming off one rudder - which is how the M works. Instead if the new rudder link, the X kit comes with a tie rod clamp. Plus, the quick connect rod appears to have more shape to it than the M rod.

You will probably have to build your own linkage to make it remote actuated. I look forward to seeing what you come up with.

The kit comes with the stationary pedestal that holds the outboard roughly centered when disconnected from the steering. So, not only do you have to unlock it from the steering, but you need to lock it straight ahead at the same time. Not impossible, but a good DIY challenge.

[Highlander]

2008 26M 75hp Merc 4 stroke
BWY quick disconnect steering upgrade, as u can see my engine is centered I had to drill & tap a new hole closer to the engine to accomplish this







Hope this helps

J

[OverEasy]

Thanks JimmyT!

[Jimmyt]

Thanks JimmyT!

You're not giving me credit for Highlander's post are you? Highlander is the king of mod's.

[OverEasy]

Well, both of you now…
Never saw a quick connect was set up or how it actually worked before.
The set up we have has a link and ring dings that only a 6 fingered three armed contortionist can disconnect or reconnect while on the waterways when it’s calm. GFB there are any wind or waves.

We would like a system (and the next winning Lottery numbers while we are dreaming) where we could easily transition from rudders & engine -to- just engine -to- just rudders without having to be prepared to take a header off the back of the transom.

We have already been contemplating converting our existing stern fill/drain ballast valve to a “Teleflex” type cable system with a lever up higher reachable from the stern helm seat. It would be nice to have a robust easy to use system to do something similar for the rudders and engine somehow. Doubt we are the first to think of something like that….. not with all the creative people there are on this forum!

Best Regards,
Over Easy

[Jimmyt]

It's a tad awkward, but SO worth it. I don't have mobility issues yet, so I don't have much incentive to make mine remote operated (too many other things more pressing).

[DaveC426913]

It's a tad awkward, but SO worth it. I don't have mobility issues yet, so I don't have much incentive to make mine remote operated (too many other things more pressing).

It's not a mobility issue for me. The helm seat on an is huge and highly disruptive to move. And it's a concussion hazard if you're not careful.

[DaveC426913]

This is mine. Motor ball is down, steering link ball is up. You only disconnect the steering link end and snap it on the stationary pedestal.

On the X, the link is on the rudder tie-rod instead of coming off one rudder - which is how the M works. Instead if the new rudder link, the X kit comes with a tie rod clamp. Plus, the quick connect rod appears to have more shape to it than the M rod.

You will probably have to build your own linkage to make it remote actuated. I look forward to seeing what you come up with.

The kit comes with the stationary pedestal that holds the outboard roughly centered when disconnected from the steering. So, not only do you have to unlock it from the steering, but you need to lock it straight ahead at the same time. Not impossible, but a good DIY challenge.

How exactly does the linkage have to be operated to disconnect? I assume you pull back on the cylindrical head and it springs back into place when released?

Why is there a spring at both ends? It looks like it could be quick disconnected at the motor end as well, though I'm not sure why that would be useful.

Also, will that linkage survive the motor being raised to fill tilt?

[Jimmyt]

How exactly does the linkage have to be operated to disconnect? I assume you pull back on the cylindrical head and it springs back into place when released?

Why is there a spring at both ends? It looks like it could be quick disconnected at the motor end as well, though I'm not sure why that would be useful.

Also, will that linkage survive the motor being raised to fill tilt?

Pull back the sleeve and the ball slips out of the socket. Yes, it springs back when released.

Yes, it can be decoupled at the motor end also. It doesn't need to decouple, but you do need a joint that allows rotation in that plane so the motor can tilt. It was probably the easiest way to make it (and reasonably cheap).

Yes. Mine will allow full range of tilt control.