questions on outboard for 26S

[new2sailing]

I am heading out to pick up my new '90 26S sailboat tomorrow. It is in pretty good shape for its age, but I am planning on buying a new outboard to replace the older 8 hp outboard that is on it now. I plan to use the boat in the Puget Sound so I have to deal with currents and tides and I want a motor that I can depend on to start up quickly if I find myself in a tight spot as I continue to learn to sail. I would appreciate some advice from the experienced sailors here:

Would a long shaft or extra long shaft be better for the boat?
What size prop works best with the 26S?
Macgregor recommends a 10 hp max, but I see that a 15 hp can weigh the same or only a little more than a 10 hp depending on the manufacturer. Would a 15 hp be better in the long run since it won't have to work as hard to move the boat and maybe it would be quieter?
How fast should I expect the 26s to go when motored and sailed in ideal conditions?
Is there hardware available to connect the outboard direction control to the tiller or is that a bad idea?

Thank-you

[SPC Paul]

I have a 1991 26S with a Johnson Sailmaster 8HP 2-cycle. I would definitely recommend the extra-long shaft motor. The shaft length on mine is 25", and I still have problems with the prop ventilating in following seas or in hard turns. My 8HP pushes my boat at about 7mph at WOT and about 5.5-6mph at 3/4 throttle.

If you're looking for a quiet motor, you should be looking at 4-strokes. They are also more fuel efficient.

I haven't seen a 26S/D with the engine linked to the tiller. I usually just leave my engine centered and steer with the tiller.

Jared

[26S Captain]

Consider that your motor may be passed on to the next owner so get something all purpose.

25 inch shaft is better. I've even had that one come out of the water on 3-5 foot chop.

Get the flattest prop they make and that may not be flat enough still. I have a 9.8 nissan 4 stroke with an 8x5 prop and tach shows the rpms at 4225 which is still too low but Nissan doesn't make a flatter prop. (Nissan and Tahastu are identical)

I would stick with the manufacturers recommendations on max HP. If there's an accident, you don't want someone saying you exceeded the boats design.

My Speeds (GPS)

Motor in 10-15 MPH wind Max 7.9-8.0 MPH (12-14 MPG)
Motor in canal water no wind- Top speed known (18 MPG)

Sail-Top speeds reached 7.5 MPH (10-15 MPH winds)
Average 4-6 MPH usually closer to 6

Don't know about mod for control. I lock the motor straight ahead and steer with tiller.

[Wayneoh]

I saw a 26 D with the tiller attached to the motor via a straight metal rod from the rudder mount to the engine so I know it can be done, but IMHO why bother when you can lock the motor straight and steer with the tiller.

One less thing to go wrong when your out enjoying your sail.

p.s. I'll look for the pics if I can find 'em I'll post 'em.

[Kelly Hanson East]

Welcome aboard new2sailing - you are where I was 6 years ago..

THere is a phenomenon called hull speed which limits how fast a 'displacement' boat like the Mac-D (I believe) can go - regardless of how big a motor goes on it. You can google "hull speed sail boat" to get an idea of this phenomenon.

The later model Macs have 'semi-planing hulls' which let them work around this effect. Your D will sail much better than my X though since its designed to do so.

[johnnyonspot]

I concur on the 10 horse. Should be good enough. Its what I use on my Mac 25, which is not all that different than the 26S, so should do just fine.

[alaskasailor]

The concept of hull speed tends to cause a great deal of confusion. Hull speed is not an absolute limit on the speed of a boat. It is merely a point at which the resistance to motion increases significantly. It is possible for a boat to exceed its hull speed. Hull speed is related to the waterline length of the hull as well as its shape. This hydrodynamic resistance is dependent on the shape of the waves being generated. A hull displaces the water as it moves. This displaced water parts and is pushed around the bow, causing waves to form. The bow wave is quite noticeable if you look at the side of the boat. The back of the wave forms a trough and then a second wave and so on. The stern also creates a wave. The distance between these waves (the wavelength) is a function of the speed of the wave. Once the wavelength increases to match the waterline length of the hull, resistance increases. This is when the bow wave and stern wave collide. The boat is not trapped between the waves for evermore, but it does take an increase in power to overcome this resistance. But then enters the problem of the extra weight of the larger engine, which affects sailing.

[Catigale]

A 9.9 HP 4 stroke would be my choice for ability to comfortably reach hull speed, economy, noise, and resale value.

[grady]

I would agree 9.9hp is a good choice. My 26s has a Yamaha T9.9 high thrust model it swings a 11 3/4 x 9 1/4 screw. it accelerates and pushes the boat easily to hull speed before WOT.

[technicalman]

I sail out of Marina Del Rey. I use a Tohatsu 6hp 25" shaft. I get hull speed out of it. It gets me out of the harbor and back when i need it.

[ChockFullOnuts22]

My boat is only a V222, and I notice a substantial difference in speed between use of a 6-HP and 9.5-HP outboard. After having used the 9.5 for years, the newer 6-hp feels way too slow--especially with the keel up. I would go for something between 9.9 and 15 HP with a 26'. Just my opinion.