Class II hitch on a 5.0L Explorer

[opie]

Does anyone use the Explorer as a tow vehicle and have success with the built-in Class 2 hitch in the bumper? I know adding a Class III hitch is preferable, but I just got this 1997 Explorer Limited (6500 # towing capacity) and want to go ahead and use it right away. My Mac and trailer is under the 3500# class II limit. I know I am on the edge on this question, close to maxing out Class II, but anyone out there with experience with this setup? Thanks.

[Divecoz]

BTDT
No Thanks.... 6500 #'s ? Maybe on a flat level road at 40 mph... That your at 3500 #'s rolling down the road . I .... doubt it..
Bumper Hitch?? I wouldn't ..
But it all depends on .. How Far You Tow it.. What kind of roads your on and what the terrain is like..
Flat, level, low speed roads for 30 minutes? No Problem.. Interstate Turnpike with everyone jockeying for position for an hour or more or a cross country or a couple day trip .. Frightful and long at best ..
IMHO having BTDT....

On EDIT: Whats the mileage on your Explorer? I sold a 10 years old 1998 with 60,000 on it . No Doubt the motor and trans had a lot of life left in them even for towing... NO KIDS had ever driven my Explorer!! Adult Driven 100% No Hot Rodding Kids..
No 4 wheeling of Mom and Dads .../ I dont give a sh~t..... I wont have to pay to fix it .....4x4 ..

[bscott]

I've seen alot of those bumper hitches bent down--look awfully flimsey to me. Not worth the risk

Bob

[Theo]

We use a 1996 4.0 Exploder 4X4 with a stick. Get the class III hitch! There is no way the bumper will handle a Mac. Any Uhaul can install it in a few hours. Otherwise you can mail order one and crawl under and do it yourself. If I can do it, anyone can. 4X4 low is a huge help hauling a partially ballasted Mac up a seaweedy, or in the case of some of our Western lakes, a dirt ramp.

Even with the class III hitch the Mac will wag the Exploder big time. Plan on making short trips to start. I've towed ours from LA to Vegas a few times. It is doable if you have enough Valium.

Theo

[dennisneal]

Opie,

I don't know much about the Explorer, but I think its good that your SUV has a V-8 engine. I would suggest that in addition to the Class lll hitch you install a heavy-duty transmission cooler, if you are planning to pull your Mac very far. Also, I don't pull our boat in overdrive.

[Y.B.Normal]

I use a 2007 Merc Mountaineer, V-8, 4WD, Auto, Tow Pkg., with a Class III hitch. I had to look long and hard for the Class III; most of the Mountaineers had a Class II. I wouldn't tow the 26M with a Class III; I don't like to be that close to the max. towing limit. Also, it's easier to find bike racks, etc. designed for the Class III. If you don't have an oil and tranny cooler, get one installed; it's cheap insurance.

[Paul S]

I wouldnt do it.

With a class 3 tow hitch being about $120 or so, and about an hour install on most trucks with basic tools, I would just go ahead and install a class 3 (I would add an aux trans cooler as well) before towing a mac. There is more to the mac than the boat. It is gear, sails, water, fuel, etc that add up the tow weight too (probably more than the trailer is rated for anyway).

Also, have your truck gone through bow to stern - brakes (pad,rotors,calipers, etc), brake lines, transmission lines.. (well anything that can rust and cause issues). Make sure tires are in good shape (ie new with good tread), make sure your trailer brakes work! You need to ensure you can stop the truck and trailer with just the truck brakes if the trailer ones fail (which most Mac trailer brakes don't work). Your truck, like my chevy and land rover, are at the age when things start to go wrong. The trailer hitch should be the last of your worries. I just had a brake line on my truck blow out from rust the other day (not pulling the boat thank goodness). The braking system is the single most important part of your truck. Fords (like chevys) have a tendency to have the brake lines rust out in certain areas. Have them checked out before pulling the Mac. If not for your sake, for the other drivers on the road!

When you buy the transmission cooler, make sure you (or your installer) installs it before the factory cooler. The coolers tend to overcool the fluid. You need to send it to the factory cooler to get it to the proper operating temprature. Do not bypass the factory cooler!

Inspect (or have inspected) your trailer brakes. Most Macs have brakes that have failed and the owners don't know about it. These trailers work a LOT better with functioning surge brakes!

The sooner you start towning.. the sooner things can fail. Take the time to install the class III hitch and cooler, and have your truck inspected with a fine tooth comb before towing.

[Divecoz]

Surge Break Failure...
If you have the 5 pin connection? Just disconnect it for this test. Now Back up your truck and boat.. Feel the resistance? Means the brakes are in fact working .
(OK OK you guys know what I mean hahahaa) Those brakes will stop reward movement if working properly..
Its easier yet if you have no 5th pin ... Just leave out the slug and try to back the trailer up..

[moondancer]

Class III all the way. Most auto part stores will special order a bolt on model. Comes with bolts, nuts and directions. Frame is already pre drilled for the factory application and that is what the aftermarket hitch people match up to. You don't want your boat to pass you on the highway. Mike wishes he was on Moondancer now.