Windless Questions????

[Divecoz]

So as NOT to get lost in Highlands Tread:
I was certain others had done this mod but I ... cannot find them in the mod section..
Are there other installs to look at? Highlanders is a great install , BUT if there is a less complicated way to accomplish this mod I would be interested in it.
I assume mounting a dedicated battery up in the V berth is the preferred placement? Logistics $$ tell me that its a lot easier and cheaper to run charging cables #10 AWG, 25+ feet is for sure preferred, and the voltage loss from running even a pair of #4 superfine cables would be considerably less at 6 feet than 25 feet as well. Did that make sense? There in lies my need for AGM Batteries as well. Even on a sailboat the abuse will be found to be the greatest up forward.
How else and where else can I mount a windless? Jons Mod is GREAT but I will Never ... find that amount of time ...
Why The sudden change of heart? After just now talking with the wife .. she feels AGMs and windless and Auto pilots ON BOTH BOATS would be money well spent.. O.M. GOODNESS how long will that notion last?? That could be as much a 5 Boat Bucks.. ( $1000 real dollars = 1 boat buck..)

[Highlander]

Hi Div

As I have a twin anchor roller set-up & want to be able to use it on both is why my set -up is a little more complicated ! I have not decided if I am going with one or two batts under the V Berth but they will also double as house batts also , I plan on running between 27-30' of #6 batt wire for this mod , most "WINDLASS" horizontal ones require a min of 12" drop to the anchor locker my mod gives me this additinal height, vertical "WINDLASS" most require 18-24" min drop for the anchor rode , their was someone on this site from down under who just had a vertical "WINDLASS" installed for around 5000.$ aussie Dol. . my Mod's total cost will be under 1000.$

Anyway for ur "WINDLESS" situation !! a 55cent can or two of Baked Beans should be just fine !!

J

[Crikey]

Beans n Bacon...

[Highlander]

Beans n Bacon...

Pork & Beans MMMMMM & let the Wind Blow Free
J

[u12fly]

Well, the windless is on my list - I have a basic idea of what I want to do... I have my eye on the Lewmar V700: http://www.lewmar.com/products.asp?id=8 ... &channel=1 It is a vertical windless, I like the low above deck profile. The manual says it is good for boats up to 35 feet, and the rode drop requirement is only 12". My plan is to re-work the front deck, probably making the forward section of the locker into permanent fixed floor (where I'll have ample room to mount the windless). I plan on lowering the rode storage into the forward V-berth, we only use that area for storage.

This is all next winters project so I don't want to dream about it too much

Chris.

[Divecoz]

I was contemplating this one? Thoughts ideas in sights?
http://www.imarineusa.com/lewmarprospor ... 4Aods1oALw

12" drop required 550lbs of pulling force..

[bahama bound]

i have my windlass and roller ,would love to see some pics of people that have done it ? i was going to put the battery foward as well and let it double as a extra house battery ? i know they make a wireless 12v remote that you could activate a soleniod with ??? to make it remote ? maybe im missing it but when i look in he mods i dont see much ? i have the vertical one ...

[Divecoz]

Where I am heading with this project, if in fact , I do go forward with it.
First and foremost, I will have a longggg talk with my brother.. He and most his dive buddies seem to have a darn good handle on the.... what ifs maybes and the... lets be dang sure Nothing Fails.. They spend a LOT of time 20 to 100 miles off shore in The Gulf of Mexico spearfishing.. They are all running 28 to 36 ft. twin engine boats and his is a twin engine diesel weighing in at 14,000.. That said?
My desire is to mount the windless On The Anchor Locker Hatch.. That hatch needs to be substantially improved and then replacing the 2 small hinges with much better hinges and proper enforced adjoining area for holding those hinges.. Then it will require 2 more "Hinges" on the other side with removable pins .. Just like we use to pin and un-pin our mast. That allows for the hatch to still be opened . The force on this unit is Sheer.. not Draw/Lift.. Your Not Lifting the boat by the bow your Dragging it.. IMHO thats all doable. Remembering that you NEVER use the windless to secure the "rode".. That is still the job of your cleats.. Don has a simple but ingenious way to lock.... his chain to his cleats.. I will only ever have my existing 30' of chain but I will carry a bridle pin should I , only need that 30' of chain to be let out and secured to a cleat.
Then I want to cut the bottom out of the Anchor locker and replace that with a catch all / i.e. some sort of container to catch and hold the "rode" 30' of chain and 150' of 3/8's line. I will need to set up for a drain to empty water from my catch container i.e. 5 gallon bucket? The cost of a windless is enough to make me puke blood.. Even the one that I am looking at , is around $500.. The battery IMHO must be forward under the V berth. This is for weight distribution and cost and ease of installation. Something else I have heard Repeatedly..... down here in SWF is ? If that windless doesn't have the ability to Free Fall The Rode? You have crap! You may seldom need to anchor in a hurry but When You Do and They ALL say that time will come.. You Need for that Anchor to Drop and Set Immediately..!!

i have my windlass and roller ,would love to see some pics of people that have done it ? i was going to put the battery foward as well and let it double as a extra house battery ? i know they make a wireless 12v remote that you could activate a soleniod with ??? to make it remote ? maybe im missing it but when i look in he mods i dont see much ? i have the vertical one ...

[bahama bound]

i wonder if replacement anchor locker hatches are avalible just in case ??? i thought about making one out of aluminum plate ,and raise the windlass up a few inches ,.....i bet 90 % of my anchor use is in 20 feet of water or less ??

Where I am heading with this project, if in fact , I do go forward with it.
First and foremost, I will have a longggg talk with my brother.. He and most his dive buddies seem to have a darn good handle on the.... what ifs maybes and the... lets be dang sure Nothing Fails.. They spend a LOT of time 20 to 100 miles replacement off shore in The Gulf of Mexico spearfishing.. They are all running 28 to 36 ft. twin engine boats and his is a twin engine diesel weighing in at 14,000.. That said?
My desire is to mount the windless On The Anchor Locker Hatch.. That hatch needs to be substantially improved and then replacing the 2 small hinges with much better hinges and proper enforced adjoining area for holding those hinges.. Then it will require 2 more "Hinges" on the other side with removable pins .. Just like we use to pin and un-pin our mast. That allows for the hatch to still be opened . The force on this unit is Sheer.. not Draw/Lift.. Your Not Lifting the boat by the bow your Dragging it.. IMHO thats all doable. Remembering that you NEVER use the windless to secure the "rode".. That is still the job of your cleats.. Don has a simple but ingenious way to lock.... his chain to his cleats.. I will only ever have my existing 30' of chain but I will carry a bridle pin should I , only need that 30' of chain to be let out and secured to a cleat.
Then I want to cut the bottom out of the Anchor locker and replace that with a catch all / i.e. some sort of container to catch and hold the "rode" 30' of chain and 150' of 3/8's line. I will need to set up for a drain to empty water from my catch container i.e. 5 gallon bucket? The cost of a windless is enough to make me puke blood.. Even the one that I am looking at , is around $500.. The battery IMHO must be forward under the V berth. This is for weight distribution and cost and ease of installation. Something else I have heard Repeatedly..... down here in SWF is ? If that windless doesn't have the ability to Free Fall The Rode? You have crap! You may seldom need to anchor in a hurry but When You Do and They ALL say that time will come.. You Need for that Anchor to Drop and Set Immediately..!!

i have my windlass and roller ,would love to see some pics of people that have done it ? i was going to put the battery foward as well and let it double as a extra house battery ? i know they make a wireless 12v remote that you could activate a soleniod with ??? to make it remote ? maybe im missing it but when i look in he mods i dont see much ? i have the vertical one ...

[Divecoz]

Hi Bahama : )
My location / situation is very similar to yours. Often my Anchoring is shallow too , sometimes its less than 10 feet occasionally less than 6 feet.
But every so often I am in 20 to 40 feet. 40 is really pushing it. But I am retired and I am setting up both boats so I can use them as loooong as possible.
If I was even 10 years younger, I doubt I would be contemplating this expense.

[Highlander]

Another option is to make an extension of the anchor locker walls say using 6" or 8" alum flat bar 3/16" thick shape it to fit inside the top lip of ur locker weld legs from say 3" alum flat bar 2 on each side 1 on the front 2 on the rear bolt these onto the anchor locker walls with backing plates inside the anchor locker floatation chamber then add ur locker lid to that now ur locker is 12-14" deep

J

PS I believe u will have to change ur anchor rode from 3/8" to 1/2" for ur windlass gypsy unless ur windlass has a capstan also like mine

[Divecoz]

I just signed a contract for $25K to get 85' of Seawall a dock and a 10k boat lift installed .. I think I am going to hold off for a couple more months and let the funds replenish themselves.. But I will keep this and other projects... On The Drawing Table, for when, The Time and The Money is right..

Another option is to make an extension of the anchor locker walls say using 6" or 8" alum flat bar 3/16" thick shape it to fit inside the top lip of ur locker weld legs from say 3" alum flat bar 2 on each side 1 on the front 2 on the rear bolt these onto the anchor locker walls with backing plates inside the anchor locker floatation chamber then add ur locker lid to that now ur locker is 12-14" deep

J

PS I believe u will have to change ur anchor rode from 3/8" to 1/2" for ur windlass gypsy unless ur windlass has a capstan also like mine

[DaveB]

Wow have times changed, as a Custom home builder on Salt Water Lots doing a 80 ft. seawall would cost $6800 in Cape Coral, built in 15x9ft insert concrete dock add $1800.
Add a 10,000 boat lift with a 2 ft. outside dock and a 16 ft.x4 ft. inside deck would cost $7200 . That was 8 years ago were prices and demand were high.
So around 15-16 K .
If you have a lot of Coral rock price could cimb to $1500 extra for Seawall, $300 for returns each end if vacant property next to you .
Did you get a cover included?
Dave

I just signed a contract for $25K to get 85' of Seawall a dock and a 10k boat lift installed .. I think I am going to hold off for a couple more months and let the funds replenish themselves.. But I will keep this and other projects... On The Drawing Table, for when, The Time and The Money is right..

Another option is to make an extension of the anchor locker walls say using 6" or 8" alum flat bar 3/16" thick shape it to fit inside the top lip of ur locker weld legs from say 3" alum flat bar 2 on each side 1 on the front 2 on the rear bolt these onto the anchor locker walls with backing plates inside the anchor locker floatation chamber then add ur locker lid to that now ur locker is 12-14" deep

J

PS I believe u will have to change ur anchor rode from 3/8" to 1/2" for ur windlass gypsy unless ur windlass has a capstan also like mine

[Ixneigh]

I have done the wind lass thing. Mine is a manual vertical crhome bronze model. The details of the mounting can be seen o. YouTube under user lastlionmonday. This unit works well and allows for handling of plenty of chain. The drawback is it can't be operated from the helm. I am in the process of learning to use the engine to help pull the hook by just setting it to idle forward while recovering the rode. If I had it to do over I would still install the manual one, but the convenient of being able to work the engine steering and anchor all at the same time can't be overlooked.
Ix

[dxg4848]

Another option is to make an extension of the anchor locker walls say using 6" or 8" alum flat bar 3/16" thick shape it to fit inside the top lip of ur locker weld legs from say 3" alum flat bar 2 on each side 1 on the front 2 on the rear bolt these onto the anchor locker walls with backing plates inside the anchor locker floatation chamber then add ur locker lid to that now ur locker is 12-14" deep

J

PS I believe u will have to change ur anchor rode from 3/8" to 1/2" for ur windlass gypsy unless ur windlass has a capstan also like mine

I bought 150' of 1/2" rope spliced into 30' of 1/4" HT chain to use with my windlass I am installing and was unpleasantly surprised with how much volume this rope and chain occupies. 12 - 14" deep locker will not work. The rope will jam. Actually I now regret that I already purchased the rope and chain. I should of went with just chain. It is a lot more expensive and heavy but occupies less volume and stores better in small locker. I may end up buying the chain anyway.