Do you remove the trailer lights as instructed?

[mtc]

The owner's manual directs the removal of the lights before submerging the trailer. Does anyone really do this?

Michaell

[jklightner]

I don't remove them, but I do unplug them from the Jeep as part of the rigging up process.

[mtc]

So, you just de-power them? How long have they lasted this way?

M

[Duane Dunn, Allegro]

There is really no need for either with the encapsulated lights. I do however un-plug them out of habit but never remove them. With normal exposed bulb lights you can pop them if you hit the brakes and turn them on while submerged in cold water. The lights's we have, at least the ones on my trailer which I think are the stock lights, use a sealed capsule which keeps the water away from the bulbs preventing the thermal problems. It also eliminates corrosion problems at least at the bulb sockets. It also makes it impossible to change the buld itself, you have to replace the entire capsule but they do last quite a while. I find almost all my trailer light problems can be traced back to the connections of the ground wires to the trailer frame. These are where corrosion still occurs. It's quite rare that I ever have to replace the bulb capsule.

[Jeff S]

I just disconnect the power at the tow vehicle. I bought new lights that are sealed pretty well and added some sealant around the seams and the entry point for the wires for good measure. They survived this last year ok, we'll see how long they last overall.

Jeff S

[Chip Hindes]

Have the stock sealed lights on my '01 trailer, never removed them. Used to disconnect them at the connector, but now with the four wheel disc brakes that also disconnects the solenoid lockout, and you can't back up, period. I'm resisting drilling for a lockout pin, so I now leave them hooked up.

One season so far, no problems.

The marker lights on the fenders are another story. Those are off when submerged anyway, but my experience is they don't last more than one dunking, salt water or fresh doesn't seem to make any difference. I've tried a couple of the cheaper "sealed" units, but they don't seem to work any better than the unsealed. Guess I'll have to move up to the more expensive versions.

[Captain Steve]

Replaced all of mine with LED units....no worries about them coming on under water. readily available on Ebay. Like Duane, I constantly fight ground problem. Strictly saltwater for my trailer.

[Divecoz]

No-Ox can even be found at most Ace / Home Depot / Menards and in a pinch use Never-seize to stop corrosion we use both products on Cozumel and both work fine/better than nothing Use No-Ox etc inside all electrical fittings as well /sta-cons /crimp fitting and crimp the heck out of them twice by over lapping so you end up with 3 marks . You can BTW spend $300 on a T&B crimper as I have or for # 18 thru #10 wire buy a set of Ideal Yellow handled (Klein's) / Electricians pliers that have the crimper in the jaws. THESE btw are the "best cheap" (oxymoron there ) hand crimpers available on the market, about $25. Of all the cheap hand crimpers I have used they are the ONLY ones that will crimp insulated and non-insulated satisfactorily. Again they can be bought at the above . (BTW Real Life Experience Not Just Read About on some web site)

[Moe]

Like Steve, I switched to sealed LED units on our Whaler's EZLoader trailer after problems with the stock ones blowing the truck's trailer tail light fuse for two-six hours after every time they got wet. No problems since. Will probably do the same on the Mac trailer. (BTW Real Life Experience Not Just Read About on some web site)

--
Moe

[Catigale]

I disconnect the plug at the hitch. Have sealed taillight units on my 2002 trailer (came from factory)

I have never had ground or electrical problems

I am 95 percent fresh water - the PCBs in the Hudson help prevent corrosion of my trailer.

[Tom Spohn]

Never unplugged after making sure everything was sealed.
Never removed except the very first time out--total hassle!
Never have had a problem