wheel tamer

[DaveC426913]

This is so frustrating. The number one feature I need for my single-handing is a wheel tamer. But try as I might I have been unable to build one that works.

All I want is something that will hold the wheel in place so I can go forward for a moment. An auto-pilot is way overkill.
I do NOT want a knob on the wheel axis. It's got to be operable from anywhere within reach of the pedestal, so I don't plan on reaching down under or through the wheel to turn a knob.

I want a stopper at the top of the wheel, where it can easily be set or released with just a flick. Currently, I have a 6" bungie from the pedestal that I have to wrap around the wheel rim. Very awkward to set or release in a hurry because I have to thread it through the wheel and hook it on.

The piece I'm really having trouble with is the part that actually grabs the wheel. It's got to have a firm grip and prevent the wheel from moving laterally. The simple plastic clip I tried wasn't enough.

[Seapup]

What about some type of toggle clamp?



http://www.amazon.com/LT-451-Toggle-Hol ... 73&sr=1-24

[Tomfoolery]

I was thinking the same basic mechanism. Maybe made from SS or even Starboard, with a synthetic rubber 'grip' area inside the hook. Flip the hook over the wheel, lock the handle down (preadjusted to just hold the wheel without ripping it out of the helm), go forward. Takes a second or two. But might take several iterations of construction to make so it works as intended.

Wheres Highlander when you need him?

[dreamer]

Wheres Highlander when you need him?

....He better be working on his boat...we all want to see him at MMOR in mid-July


Dave I use bungee cord too but to the lifeline by the stern rail seats, it does get in the way though.

[Highlander]

Wheres Highlander when you need him?

....He better be working on his boat...we all want to see him at MMOR in mid-July


Dave I use bungee cord too but to the lifeline by the stern rail seats, it does get in the way though.

Don't need one Auto-pilot comes with one which will do the same if u don't have the A/P on

J

[Tomfoolery]

Wheres Highlander when you need him?

....He better be working on his boat...we all want to see him at MMOR in mid-July.

Good point. If he's here, chatting on a message board, then he can't be getting that OB of his running, as last I heard, it still wasn't fixed.

As to the wheel tamer, perhaps a knob in the center that could be screwed in to press against a stationary disk forward of the spokes of the wheel. Would take a bit of design and fabrication, but it's probably doable. I don't remember if there's a nut on the wheel, but the assembly could replace the nut, or mount under it, if there is.

Have to think about that a bit.

[DaveC426913]

What about some type of toggle clamp?



http://www.amazon.com/LT-451-Toggle-Hol ... 73&sr=1-24

I like this. I have a feeling though that it won't fit in the space without interfering with anything on top of the pedestal, such as my GPS.

[Max Entropy]

What about some type of toggle clamp?


I like this. I have a feeling though that it won't fit in the space without interfering with anything on top of the pedestal, such as my GPS.

Here's a real nutty idea: how about a set of caliper type bike brakes? The wheel rim is similar in cross section diameter to many bike rims; perhaps it's possible to rig a set on the wheel at the bottom somehow with a locking handle. Now that shd keep you entertained for a while if nothing else.

- Nick

[Tomfoolery]

What about some type of toggle clamp?


I like this. I have a feeling though that it won't fit in the space without interfering with anything on top of the pedestal, such as my GPS.

Here's a real nutty idea: how about a set of caliper type bike brakes? The wheel rim is similar in cross section diameter to many bike rims; perhaps it's possible to rig a set on the wheel at the bottom somehow with a locking handle. Now that shd keep you entertained for a while if nothing else.

- Nick

Or adapt a bicycle disk brake to the backside of the wheel, mounted to the spokes and spaced far enough back to fit a caliper, if there's enough room.

[Boblee]

Even if you manage to fix the wheel in place you still need to be careful going forward as just heeling the boat a bit can veer it of course and once going usually needs over correcting to bring it back.
AP is good but you can certainly do without as I have found after the motor burnt out.

[ronacarme]

About 2 years ago I installed a DIY adjustable friction wheel brake in the form of a strap (cheap woven plastic belting from the hardware store) wrapped snuggly over the top of the steering wheel hub, with the strap ends extending convergently downward. Cords, fixed at the depending ends of the strap, converge downward and wrap on a small cleat fixed low on the back face of the steering pedestal. Tightening/loosening the cords on the cleat varies the frictional resistance of the strap to wheel rotation. Optimal tightness allows me to manually steer the boat, or leave the helm for a time (e.g go to the bow and back), without fallng off course or readjusting the cords on the cleat.
The only downside is the strap squeaks sometimes as I rotate the wheel.
The boat self steers best when the CB is located to balance the sail plan and the course is to windward or a close or beam reach.
Ron

[DaveC426913]

So I'm making a little rubber clamp on a hinge that folds upward and clamps on the inner rim. Unfortunately, the distance from pedestal-top to wheel-rim is longer than the distance from pedestal top to wheel-axle, so the arm doesn't fit well in the stowed position.

I've discovered something frustrating. I'm trying to attach the hinge under the top edge of my pedestal, where there is a lip (previous mod). I cannot get at this lip without removing the wheel. So:
1] At 3/4", the wheel bolt is larger than both my - and almost anyone else's - socket set.
2] Even with the bolt off, the wheel doesn't come off. I think I might need a puller:

[Max Entropy]

So I'm making a little rubber clamp on a hinge that folds upward and clamps on the inner rim. Unfortunately, the distance from pedestal-top to wheel-rim is longer than the distance from pedestal top to wheel-axle, so the arm doesn't fit well in the stowed position.

I've discovered something frustrating. I'm trying to attach the hinge under the top edge of my pedestal, where there is a lip (previous mod). I cannot get at this lip without removing the wheel. So:
1] At 3/4", the wheel bolt is larger than both my - and almost anyone else's - socket set.
2] Even with the bolt off, the wheel doesn't come off. I think I might need a puller:

That's exactly what you need. If it still doesn't come off at first attempt with the puller, give the nut & stud (what you can reach) a good dose of penetrating oil, e.g Liquid Wrench, tighten the gear/wheel puller as much as you dare and leave it overnight. Worked for me.

- Nick

[Boblee]

I hesitate to say it but giving the nut a TAP while pulling will usually do the job likewise give the centre bolt of the puller a TAP and I highlight tap to mean use caution to avoid damage, this can be after using some penetrating oil but use caution with tapping, wind the holding nut in till the thread is just below the top of it.

[mastreb]

It took me three days and somebody else to get my wheel off, with a puller and nearly an entire bottle of WD-40. I wasn't willing to give the puller enough smack to make it happen.

Wound up with a big divot in the wheel shaft, and put plenty of grease on to keep it from seizing again.

I think it's pretty chintzy that the factory doesn't grease the wheel stem, and factory sales doesn't grease the outboard shaft on these boats when they sell them. These loads get seized very quickly under normal use, and there can be times when you need to get a prop off in a hurry.

If I had one piece of advice for new owners, it would be to immediately remove and grease the wheel and the prop before the use the boat.