Suzuki DF50A impeller replacement question

[gabid]

Hello,
I tried to replace the water pump impeller on my Suzuki DF50A, but I cannot remove the lower unit. Something holds it in place. I can lower it only 1-2 inch. See foto here: https://goo.gl/photos/LFDKE26UVPiAXRL39

I just removed the 6 bolts holding the lower unit, make sure the shift is in neutral.
Anybody has any idea what the problem might be?

[Tomfoolery]

Did you disconnect the shift rod? You have to spin the coupler nut up or down so one end disconnects. Otherwise, you're only shifting it into gear.

[Russ]

It's been a while, but I think Tom is correct.
Check this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToENyvgALoI

[gabid]

Did you disconnect the shift rod? You have to spin the coupler nut up or down so one end disconnects. Otherwise, you're only shifting it into gear.

I did not spin the coupler nut. This might be it, when I pull down the lower unit, it is engaging the gear box. I will try it again tomorrow.
Thank you

[Tomfoolery]

It likely has a locknut on each side of the coupler nut, so back them off first. Put the shifter in some position that makes the nut most accessible. Suzuki may have specific instruction on that.

What's important is that the two rods are in the same place when you go to spin the coupler nut to reengage whichever rod it was spun off of (it will remain on the other). If the space between the two rods changes, the shifting coordination between the remote and the engine may be off.

One thing you can do is mark the two rods right where the coupler nut ends with a fine point magic marker (after spinning the lock nuts back), so you can verify the nut and the two rods are in the same place when you put it back. It also helps to put it in gear, as there's a detent in the lower unit (at least, there is on the Honda). And don't touch the remote once you spin that nut down or up.

Don't worry about the locknuts - shift to whatever position allows easiest access with two wrenches. Then shift it (usually so the rod goes down, but yours may be better with up, or in neutral) so you have room to mark and move the nut. Once the coupler nut is clear of the rod, you can back out the bolts and drop the unit. I use a floor jack under it so I don't drop it when the bolts are out (no load - just a helping hand), as I'm usually working alone.

It's not as hard as it sounds. It's just a little bit fussy, with small wrenches and small spaces and big hands.

[gabid]

Thanks a lot, Tomfoolery. That's exactly what I did, it worked out great. Now I have the new impeller kit installed. It looks like it was time to change it, here is a photo of the old one:
https://goo.gl/photos/7xZNUP4AQvSTsFs68

The hardest part was the removal of the old drive key.

[Tomfoolery]

Just make sure you grease the housing so it's not starting 'dry', and that you twisted the shaft in the normal (operating) direction as the housing is slipped over the impeller, so the lobes don't end up bent in the wrong direction. But it's really not as hard as it sounds. I used to do my inboard diesel every other year, but in lake water, I'm sure it could have gone much longer. An OB is a little more work, so I'll let mine go a few years. But the last thing you want is for pieces to break off, as they'll get lodged in a cooling passage and I don't even know how you'd get them out.