Roller Furling

[Dimitri-2000X-Tampa]

Having the anchor to starboard works best with the locker lid opening to port. I work with my second anchor on the port side of the furler where the furler line is without any problem, but it is a bit tighter on that side with the locker door in the way.

Changing your furling line should be easy. It's just 3 or 4 fairleads all of which screw in from the top. You can change the drum exit orientation by moving two screws on the bottom of the drum. You would have to move the cam cleat or stopper as well, but it will probably take more time to fill the old holes than to move the setup. Make sure the final fairlead by the drum has a stainless insert.

Duane, your response brings up another good topic. Lately, my furler line is getting all bunched up at the bottom of the drum. Seems like half the time anymore, I have to reel it in and out a couple times before I can get the genoa to unfurl all the way. Do you think this is because the fairlead is too close to the furler drum? Or maybe I need to keep more tension on the furling line when it is unfurling.

I think I actually only have one fairlead...and it does not have the stainless insert. Do they wear through without the insert? The rest of the line goes around the stanchions of the bow pulpit, then through the forward cabin top stanchion, and then through the cam cleat on the side of the cabin top. This actually works much better than my old O'Day which had a ball bearing roller on each stanchion to run the furling line through.

The people at UK Sailmakers (where I got my genoa cover sewed on) recommended that I use a core-less line for the furling line to keep it from bunching up. I suppose that would help my situation but I also wonder if it makes the line a bit less strong. As for moving the cam cleat, I suppose I could access the back via the wiring panel. I think on the port side, there is that access panel above the head sink.

Duane, I'm curious how you run the line/chain to the port side of the furler if your anchor roller is on the other side? Maybe moving my furling line would be the best thing if it is not really installed that properly to begin with...but then I'd probably always be going to the wrong side of the boat since I'm used to it on the starboard side now.

[Duane Dunn, Allegro]

Sounds like the angle it feeds at may be stopping it from rolling up cleanly. I found my first fairlead, which was plastic only, had a groove worn into it quite deep. If I had not replaced it it would have worn through. I have two fairleads on the lower level to guide the line beside the anchor locker hinges, one at the hatch level, and one at the forward cabintop staunchion. This helps the line follow the contours of the deck so there are no areas where it sticks up and is a trip hazard. Mine never rolls up as clean as I would like, but it seems to never become a ball that stops the rotation. My line is just standard (cheap) 1/8" line. It is round, so I assume any core is still in there. Removing the core would help the line lay flatter as it winds on the drum.

[Frank C]

... my furler line is getting all bunched up at the bottom of the drum. ... The people at UK Sailmakers (where I got my genoa cover sewed on) recommended that I use a core-less line for the furling line to keep it from bunching up. ... I'm curious how you run the line/chain to the port side of the furler if your anchor roller is on the other side? Maybe moving my furling line would be the best thing if it is not really installed that properly to begin with...

The furling line usually bunches up due to an improper "first lead" position. Setting that first lead is more art than science. The "coreless furling line" has the core stripped out for the first 15 feet or so, leaving only the web-style flat cover to wrap onto the drum, resulting in much less bulk too, and makes the first lead less critical. Yes it has less strength, but the furler should never require too much tension anyway, or something is wrong. The coreless furling line also it permits upsizing to a 5/16ths furling line. It must be a double-braid, like NER Sta-set, but mine is just a normal NER 1/4" line, led along portside for easier access to the anchor locker.

I avoid leading either anchor rode, port or starboard, over the bow roller anyhow, preferring to snub them directly onto the bow cleats. Don't want to incur the added torque of a rode leading across the roller. Besides that, it will most likely move off the roller by itself overnight, so I just start it out that way. The bow roller is only to ease weighing the heavier anchor and chain, and to provide convenient stowage. I weigh the secondary anchor (portside) by hand.

[Jack O'Brien]

My 2000 X had the fairlead too close to the furler drum causing the line to bunch at the bottom. I moved the fairlead back to the raised edge of the anchor locker. It is the only fairlead. I run the line through the stantion bases back to the cam cleat.

I originally had my Danforth anchor on a pulpit mount on the starboard side. But it was in the way as I climbed the trailer ladder and boarded over the pulpit, which I do a lot more frequently than anchoring. So I moved it to the port pulpit. When getting ready to anchor we remove the anchor from the holder first and then open the locker. I have a second Danforth in the locker under the rode of the first anchor. (And a third on the starboard stern rail.)