Electrical wiring through bulk head
Electrical wiring through bulk head
I am trying to run wiring through the boat for an VHF attenna. I have figured out how to run the wire from under the galley to the side just below the window. I also figured out how to get the wire from the mast to just before the side of the boat. What I have not figured out yet is how to get the wire from just below the window to top of the boat . Any suggestion on how I can do this. I have a 1999 26X.
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Chip Hindes
- Admiral
- Posts: 2166
- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 6:13 am
- Location: West Sand Lake, NY '01X, "Nextboat" 50HP Tohatsu
Most have found it difficult to impossible to get wiring between the bilge and the deck. Approximatley at the deck flange is apparently where the liner attaches to the hull and there is no easy route between. I've heard a few state you can do it approximately where the chainplates reside, but others have had no luck. Another problem, if you're routing the swires past sharp edges at the deck flange you may have problems later when those edges cut it.
My dealer was one of the most experienced in the country and he didn't attempt it; he just ran the wiring to all the accesories exposed from the just behind the battery compartment to the recess behind the DC power panel, then bundled and covered it with a flex cover.
That offends the sensibilities of some, but it really doesn't look that bad and every additoinal wire I've run has been through the same route.
My dealer was one of the most experienced in the country and he didn't attempt it; he just ran the wiring to all the accesories exposed from the just behind the battery compartment to the recess behind the DC power panel, then bundled and covered it with a flex cover.
That offends the sensibilities of some, but it really doesn't look that bad and every additoinal wire I've run has been through the same route.
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JRonUnderSail
- Just Enlisted
- Posts: 18
- Joined: Fri May 12, 2006 7:21 pm
- Location: Lake Pepin this year! w/ 26X#3499
mast to galley wiring
I just did it yesterday on a 2000 26X.
1. I removed the two smoke plexiglass pieces and used a "fishtape" towards the port channel and out one of the access holes (remove the white plugs).
2. Then I went aft to the next access hole that has a large channel going to the wall. (little steps).
3. Once there, I drilled another hole in the liner in the hollow column by the sink (on the bottom of the column, and you can get the plugs at Home Depot). The fish tape went down to that hole with no problem...
4. Next step is to pull the plug on the shroud bolt access hole. Fish tape from your new hole ( in the galley column) to the shroud holes (you're going forward now) and the wires just fall down into the access underneath the sink...
5. When you're doing this stunt, run an extra chunk of lamp cord in your wiring. You can either use it later OR use it as a "runner" (cheap fish tape) for the next set of wires you decide you need. It also helps to label them with a magic marker: it's amazing how confused you can get with 4 chunks of lamp cord tied off on the fuse box...
Good luck,
JR
1. I removed the two smoke plexiglass pieces and used a "fishtape" towards the port channel and out one of the access holes (remove the white plugs).
2. Then I went aft to the next access hole that has a large channel going to the wall. (little steps).
3. Once there, I drilled another hole in the liner in the hollow column by the sink (on the bottom of the column, and you can get the plugs at Home Depot). The fish tape went down to that hole with no problem...
4. Next step is to pull the plug on the shroud bolt access hole. Fish tape from your new hole ( in the galley column) to the shroud holes (you're going forward now) and the wires just fall down into the access underneath the sink...
5. When you're doing this stunt, run an extra chunk of lamp cord in your wiring. You can either use it later OR use it as a "runner" (cheap fish tape) for the next set of wires you decide you need. It also helps to label them with a magic marker: it's amazing how confused you can get with 4 chunks of lamp cord tied off on the fuse box...
Good luck,
JR
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Harrison
- First Officer
- Posts: 307
- Joined: Tue Jan 04, 2005 12:57 pm
- Location: Frederick, CO. '05 M, Merc 60 Bigfoot
Mast light(mid mast), are you referring to an Anchor light(Top of mast)? I believe Macs come equipped with a mast steaming light from the factory. A quick way to make your anchor light work is to put the appropriate perko connector on your wiring through the mast, and just plug it into the existing connector that Macgregor installed already into your deck for the mast light. I cant think of a situation that Ill be anchored and steaming at the same time. No additional wiring or fusing needed.
---Harrison
---Harrison
The new unit I am adding is both. They can be turned on apart from each other. It is a combo unit. I have the co-axe cable run 3/4 of the way down the top of the bulk head. I am running the wire from stern to bow on the port side of the boat. I have past the first of many tight spots. The second stop is just before you reach the V-berth. I am only about a foot and 1/2 away from the turn towards the starboard side to reach the mast entry. Any suggustions on how to push the co-axe cable through this tight spot.
Thanks
Thanks
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ChrisNorton
- Engineer
- Posts: 132
- Joined: Fri Mar 11, 2005 6:54 am
I've successfully run wires from the electrical panel to the top of the mast several times for a weather station, VHF antenna, anchor light (top of mast), foredeck light (mid-mast), steaming light (mid-mast), spreader lights and a radio antenna.
You need a fish tape and a lot of patience. Remove smoked glass from top of mast pole, make appropriate passthroughs from deck to this area using any number of perko electrical pass throughs, use the fish tape from smoked glass area to grouping of pre-existing plug holes above galley, then fish tape wire down upper liner straight down from group of pre-existing plug holes, use your hand under upper liner to grab wire, then use fish tape through two plug holes at top of lower liner down into galley area. From there run back to battery and up to electrical panel. All wires will be hidden except if your electrical panel is on the upper liner next to the main hatch at which point you may need to run it ourside the liner hidden in a corregated conduit which looks fine there.
As Jron indicated, run an extra wire a little greater than twice the total length required when you do this as a guide wire for future needs and leave it in there. You will be so thankful you did this. It needs to be a little more than twice the required length so both ends never get completely sucked back into the liner thereby requiring the fish tape again.
You need a fish tape and a lot of patience. Remove smoked glass from top of mast pole, make appropriate passthroughs from deck to this area using any number of perko electrical pass throughs, use the fish tape from smoked glass area to grouping of pre-existing plug holes above galley, then fish tape wire down upper liner straight down from group of pre-existing plug holes, use your hand under upper liner to grab wire, then use fish tape through two plug holes at top of lower liner down into galley area. From there run back to battery and up to electrical panel. All wires will be hidden except if your electrical panel is on the upper liner next to the main hatch at which point you may need to run it ourside the liner hidden in a corregated conduit which looks fine there.
As Jron indicated, run an extra wire a little greater than twice the total length required when you do this as a guide wire for future needs and leave it in there. You will be so thankful you did this. It needs to be a little more than twice the required length so both ends never get completely sucked back into the liner thereby requiring the fish tape again.