To Winterize or not Winterize

[PatrickS]

(I searched for an answer on the site, but didn't find one)

How long does the engine have to sit unused to warrant winterization?

FWIW, I have a Honda 50.

I presume that freezing isn't a big issue, since in the down position,
essentially all water drains out, right? And fuel and oil won't freeze
(at North Texas temperatures at least).

The "winter" is pretty short here, and I don't expect the boat to sit
for more than a month or so, which it occasionally has done during
the summertime anyway. I'm actually planning a weekend sail in
mid February (after 19 years in Finland, anything above 50F is
acceptable, even if not optimal, sailing weather to me, especially
if the sun is shining

If I pull out the old trash can, fill it with water, and run the engine
occassionally (in between the really cold days when freezing is a
possibility) to keep the fuel from sitting in the carbs too long (and
I use stabilizer in any case) is any winterizing really necessary?

Is there something I'm perhaps missing?

Thanks,

Patrick

[Terry]

I am on my 5th winter with my Honda BF50 and have winterized some winters and not others. A few times, this one included, I put stabilizer in the fuel and run the engine in a big tub of fresh water once a week. I keep the engine down and some weeks it is too cold and my tub of water freezes over, but most of the time I get to run it. This goes on for 6 months after which I change the oil and start a new season. Other years I have run the engine untill the gas runs dry, then left it until spring, then take it to the Honda dealer to service for the new season. I get it serviced every second year. Runs fine for now and I live north of the 49th.

[James V]

The winterization checklist is to go through your boat and clean and check everything so that when you put the boat in the water the next year you do not have much problems.

I recommend that you pull the manual and do what it recommends. It may save you a lot of problems latter, but more than likely not as you plan to use the boat within 3 months.

Most of the Boat store sites have a winterization checklist. Nice weekend project.

[PatrickS]

I pretty much went over the boat with a fine toothed comb
in preparation for the trip I just took to Florida, and so aside
from the issue of sitting unused, there's really nothing more
to be done.

I was mostly just concerned about the effects of the engine
sitting unused, and it seems that just running it every couple
of weeks should be enough.

I can understand a more rigorous "winterization" for folks that
are not going to be using their boat for 4-6 months, but I guess
there's no real need to really "winterize" in Texas in the same
manner.

(or am I still possibly missing something

[Night Sailor]

Hello neighbor. I live in Flower Mound. For the last ten years I've kept my Merc 50 classic unwinterized whether in or out of the water. Right now it's out. I'm not familiar with the Honda 50 but if you say the water drains out in the upright position, then you have all you need in Stabil or other fuel stabilizer in the fuel, and running it at least once per month. I run for 5 minutes at 2000 rpm every two weeks. I also use the ear muff water hose adaptors that clamp over the water inake in the lower unit below the anti ventilation plate. I don't know if the Honda has this, but if it has, that's the easiest way to do the maintenance running. Basspro in Grapvine is the closest place to you if you don't have one.

For the boat itself, use a air hose to blow the water out of any water traps you have, empty any water tanks you have, including portapotty or head if you have one onboard. If on a trailer I assume the ballast tank is already empty. If in the water don't do anything for the ballast, empty or full.

[James V]

There are some things that need lubing every year, if not done, can cause problems in the future. I know that Merc recomends that you remove the porp every year.

[Catigale]

Other Merc recommendation is to put a small amount of oil in each cylinder for layover - I have done this most seasons but not all, in upstate NY (boat dormant from late November through March.

I do turn the engine over (not starting) every few weeks though. I have EFI so I dont have all the carb/fuel hassle.

[c130king]

My boat is in dry storage since July 07 and will be until Dec 08 when I finally plan to get back to it for a couple of weeks.

I did all the manual recommended things to the engine...fogging the cylinders and stabilizer in the fuel. Engine stored in the down position.

However, I also removed my battery and stored it at my Dad's house. So there is no opportunity to "turn it over" every so often.

Is that going to be a problem????

My plan for Dec is to change out all the oil and gearbox lube and if I can figure out how to do it change out the oil/lube in the tilt mechanism. Never done that before.

And of course I will lube the steering rod so I don't have a repeat of the problem I had in May when I had to change out the steering cable.

Boat is pretty much completely wrapped in a heavy duty tarp (actually 3 tarps to cover everything.

Jim

[Pacamac-uk]

.....I have EFI so I dont have all the carb/fuel hassle.

Surely the fuel issue is the same whether it's carbed or EFI!

Fuel deterioration over the damp winter months (moisture absorption and I assume loss of volatiles) is the main problem with the fuel. Any chemists on 'Board' care to advise?

I always had problems with last year's 2-stroke pre-mixed (oiled) fuel, usually on the lawnmower or brush cutter but have never experienced any problem with straight 4-stroke fuel. However if I was ever in any doubt I would put it into my car's fuel tank ensuring a good mix with plenty of fresh fuel. Also I kept the fuel in a dry garage not out in a tank on a machine or boat stored outside.

Doesn't seem to me that Texas winters are an issue!

[Catigale]

They just dont, it turns out. Carbs require a certain viscosity of fuel and certain composition to give a good combusion mix - anything that messes that up will give you problems...there are also many more places to plug up than in a FIJ system.

FIJ systems deliver fuel at high pressure right up to the cylinders and then only have to get the fuel through the nozzle - one good quality fuel filter and, since the fuel system is closed, a clean fuel supply is always there.

Downside is if your FIJ breaks on the water you are probably fubar, whereas carbs give you chance to fight another day.

On bad years I confess I have used 6 month old gas in my Merc and run the tank out in the Spring in my EFI - and have never noticed any difference in starting/running with this.

[eric3a]

..

[PatrickS]

Hello neighbor. I live in Flower Mound. For the last ten years I've kept my Merc 50 classic unwinterized whether in or out of the water. Right now it's out. I'm not familiar with the Honda 50 but if you say the water drains out in the upright position, then you have all you need in Stabil or other fuel stabilizer in the fuel, and running it at least once per month. I run for 5 minutes at 2000 rpm every two weeks. I also use the ear muff water hose adaptors that clamp over the water inake in the lower unit below the anti ventilation plate. I don't know if the Honda has this, but if it has, that's the easiest way to do the maintenance running. Basspro in Grapvine is the closest place to you if you don't have one.

I use the fiberglass tub that originally held the cooler for running/flushing
the engine in the driveway. It's the perfect size, and ensures the engine
is getting plenty of water, being fully immersed.

For the boat itself, use a air hose to blow the water out of any water traps you have, empty any water tanks you have, including portapotty or head if you have one onboard. If on a trailer I assume the ballast tank is already empty. If in the water don't do anything for the ballast, empty or full.

Looks like I'm set then.

BTW, where do you do most of your local sailing?

I've yet to get out on Lake Grapevine, which is where I'm guessing
you frequent, being so close. I've been mostly on Lake Lewisville.

[phil kelly]

I have a 50 hp Yamaha on my X, carb model. I aquired it last season and had oils and filters changed, since then it has had less than 20 hours use and I anticipate similar usage this coming season.
I'm currently moored in a small marina for the winter and I run the outboard for 1/2 hour every 3 weeks. The fuel is about 3 months old now and will be 'freshened up' this week,I think 4 litres of fresh fuel added to one litre of existing fuel should be OK ?
My question is do I need to change the oil and filters every season given the low hours of use each year or could I change them every other season without adverse effect on the engine.
All opinions welcome, Phil Kelly, Manchester, UK.