26M roller furler installation -first fairlead use bow cleat

[Paul S]

Is this a good way to install the roller furler on a 26M? Go under a bow cleat instead of a fairlead?




Paul

[Paul S]

Oh yea..this is from the Macgregor factory website.

[jsserene]

So what does this mean, Roger is getting too cheap to put a furling fairlead on the bow like on the X?
Jeff

[Paul S]

our 26M never came with any fairleads..just a roller on the boat (uninstalled). The dealer did have his guy come down to install it and install the fairleads (incorrectly actually - long story - another thread).

got a kick out of the picture - right off the factory website.

[Frank C]

I use the same approach on the 26X - didn't want to drill into the deck for a fairlead. The problems are 1) it's not really well-led for the X, and 2) it really screws up usage of that cleat for docklines.

[Chip Hindes]

So what does this mean, Roger is getting too cheap to put a furling fairlead on the bow like on the X?

Neither Roger, not the Mac factory has anything to do with furler installation, on either the X or the M. Furlers are installed by the dealer.

IMO, the pictured setup is a total waste of what is otherwise a useful cleat, and it looks as if the line is not being led at the proper angle. Tell the dealer to install a bullseye fairlead on the deck, or do it youself.

As far as not drillng any holes in the deck, about half the dealer and self installed options on my boat have required drilling holes somewhere in the deck or topsides; a mental count (the boat is not near) puts the total number somewhere around 100 holes. Get over it and get used to it.

[Paul S]

So what does this mean, Roger is getting too cheap to put a furling fairlead on the bow like on the X?

Neither Roger, not the Mac factory has anything to do with furler installation, on either the X or the M. Furlers are installed by the dealer.

IMO, the pictured setup is a total waste of what is otherwise a useful cleat, and it looks as if the line is not being led at the proper angle. Tell the dealer to install a bullseye fairlead on the deck, or do it youself.

As far as not drillng any holes in the deck, about half the dealer and self installed options on my boat have required drilling holes somewhere in the deck or topsides; a mental count (the boat is not near) puts the total number somewhere around 100 holes. Get over it and get used to it.

Thats what I got a kick out it! Total waste of a cleat! Since it is a factory picture makes it even more amusing, to me at least.

Paul

[RRice]

I used the Stanchion Mounted Bullseye Fairleads from Wmarine. I have one on each stanchion on the outside of the boat at the bow. I also run my line through the attatchment point for the mast raising stabilizer.

[Paul S]

I used the Stanchion Mounted Bullseye Fairleads from Wmarine. I have one on each stanchion on the outside of the boat at the bow. I also run my line through the attatchment point for the mast raising stabilizer.

That is the way mine was set up. I found the line was rubbing on the hub can (whatever it is called). This is why I put it on the deck. Made a world of difference on our boat.

When your boat is set up. Wind up the roller (no line in the reel) and pull on the line hard, it may rub on the can, it did on ours. Plus it coiled on the spool like crap. Now it is nice and even.

I did like the ease of installation of the stanchion mounted units.. did not like drilling in the deck. But it was not right...at least on our boat..

I would double check your installation. Did you or the dealer install it?

Paul

[RRice]

I did the instalation myself. I could not find a spot that would not interfere with anything else. I am completely new to sailing so my judgment on whether it would be in the way is suspect. I felt like doing this will work untill I am able to see what other people have done. I am open to any suggestions or ideas.

[Chip Hindes]

Don't know how much different the M is. On my X, the stanchion mounted bullseye is the second fairlead; the first is on the deck centered only about a foot aft of the stemhead fitting.

If the furling line is not led at a right angle to the drum and almost dead center, it will create problems. If it's lead too high, as when you lead it to the stanchion bullseye, when you unfurl the sail, the line will lift the drum cover, run off the drum, wrap around the plastic luff above the drum and jam into a horrendous, tangled rat's nest. If this happens under high wind and high load (that's when it's most likely to happen) with the sail partially furled, you won't be able to furl it, unfurl it, or drop it, and the only thing you can do is release the sheets and then wrap the sail around the furler by hand.

Been there, done that.