Main halyard swivel block

[kitcat]

I'm just working out a system to get my main halyard back to the cockpit on an with a rotating mast, so I can install a lazy jack. The consensus suggests a Harken 140 swiveling block at the bottom of the mast, but this block comes with a self cleating system, which doesn't appear necessary as the halyard will leave the mast at deck level and go around a turning block on the stanchion then back to a clutch near the winch. So, what happens to the cleat built into the block? Maybe there is a swivel block without a cleat but I couldn't find one in the Harken catalogue [UK sp. ]

Anybody got some suggestions please?

Paul

[Paul S]

some pics of how i put the main halyard back to the cockpit - block at the base of the mast, to a stacked cheek block, to a cleat by the cockpit
http://www.seeberg.com/mac26m/web4/

[hartflat]

Hi Paul,

After trying a few options, I found that (since the has a rotating mast) the Harken 140 is the way to go. I removed the cam cleat that came with the 140, ran the line to a block with swivelling shackle plus a second straight shackle to the base of the stanchion, just starboard of the mast, then ran the line to a rope clutch, just forward of the cockpit. (You can also use a twisted shackle if the block has a fixed shackle... I added the second shackle to the block at the base of the stanchion in order to run the line parallel to the toerail from the block to the clutch) Some folks fasten the 140 to the mast with rivets, but I just drilled two pilot holes & used two SS hex head tapping screw with Locktite. Going on 3 years & still works great for me.

Caveat... Although having nothing to do with the above setup, there's a very annoying snag that occasionally occurs when I'm raising, or lowering the mainsail. Every now & then, the mainsail halyard tends to get caught up on the portside acorn nuts that hold the headsail &/or mast raising hounds to the mast. Every so often, I'm forced to climb on deck & pull the dang halyard loose... its a real PIA!

Ray

[c130king]

Caveat... Although having nothing to do with the above setup, there's a very annoying snag that occasionally occurs when I'm raising, or lowering the mainsail. Every now & then, the mainsail halyard tends to get caught up on the portside bolts that hold the headsail &/or mast raising hounds to the mast. Every so often, I'm forced to climb on deck & pull the dang halyard loose... its a real PIA!

Yes, me too...normally only when raising the main. I have thought about trying to figure out a way to cover those bolt ends...but have never followed up on those thoughts.

It only happens 9.35% of the time so probably not worth worrying about.

Cheers,
Jim

[hartflat]

Come to think of it Jim, the snag does seem to happen only when raising the mainsail... I covered the offending nuts with aluminum flashing tape & although that helped somewhat, I still have an occasional snag.

Ray

[parrothead]

If running the main halyard through a Harken 140 swivel block and THEN through some other block and THEN back to a cleat or clutch near the cockpit is working acceptably, by all means continue to use that system.

To me, the advantage of the Harken 140 is that the built-in cleat keeps the halyard tension consistent regardless of the position of the swiveling mast - and keeps that tension isolated to the mast itself. After the halyard exits that cleat on the base of the mast, it is slack. It can be released from the cockpit with an upward snap, although I must confess that I typically release it by hand at the mast, since I'm going forward to gather and tie the mainsail after it has come down.

[aya16]

If running the main halyard through a Harken 140 swivel block and THEN through some other block and THEN back to a cleat or clutch near the cockpit is working acceptably, by all means continue to use that system.

To me, the advantage of the Harken 140 is that the built-in cleat keeps the halyard tension consistent regardless of the position of the swiveling mast - and keeps that tension isolated to the mast itself. After the halyard exits that cleat on the base of the mast, it is slack. It can be released from the cockpit with an upward snap, although I must confess that I typically release it by hand at the mast, since I'm going forward to gather and tie the mainsail after it has come down.

This in my opinion is the best way to get the halyard aft, and have it function with the swivel mast. This by the way, this is how those catamarans lead their lines aft, with their swivel masts..
Mike

[bscott]

I run my halyards thru the 140 directly to the winches--no turning blocks. As parrothead sez, you have the option of access from the cockpit OR standing at the mast. JIb halyard, same way.

Bob

[aya16]

I run my halyards thru the 140 directly to the winches--no turning blocks. As parrothead sez, you have the option of access from the cockpit OR standing at the mast. JIb halyard, same way.

You have an X, your mast doesnt turn...The only way to have the halyard work from the cockpit, and still have the use of the swivel mast is to cleat the halyard at the mast, using the 140's cam cleat, then there is free motion of the mast. That would be for the "M" .

The 140 being attached to the mast with its own swivel, keeps it in a staright line to the cockpit. Of course you need to have sail slugs for this to work right.
mike

[Terry]

Come to think of it Jim, the snag does seem to happen only when raising the mainsail... I covered the offending nuts with aluminum flashing tape & although that helped somewhat, I still have an occasional snag.Ray

Yes, that happened to me too many times to ignore, the main halyard always gets hung up on the hound nut so when I installed a second spinnaker hound 18" higher I took out the hound bolt and put it back though facing the port side for both hounds thus just leaving a small bolt head exposed for the main halyard, so now it never catches anymore. As for the jib halyard it dos not catch on either bolt because it is lower and also on a furler so no more snags.
I used the block Paul S. used rather than the Harken 140 for simplicity on the halyard aft system and have a clutch at the winch area to hold it, this seems to work just fine, I see no need to have it cleat at the mast, that is just extra hassle. Each to thier own though.

[mastreb]

So I did a rigged a temporary Ronstan 40 shackle block at the bottom of my mast on the mast foot throughbolt's excess threading by putting the shackle and another nylock on it. Been on for a few sails and shows no signs of loosening. The halyard than goes to a a swivel block on the jib track that needs to be replaced by a cheek block, and then through a cam-cleat also on the jib track where the halyard is tensioned. that too eventually needs to go, but I did this mostly because I had most of the hardware on hand from other failed experiments to see whether or not I wanted to permanently lead the halyards back or whether other problems would emerge.

On the good side, the whole system works well and does not impact mast rotation, since the throughbolt is on the rotating side of the mast. I had no issues with that.

But I ran into two immediate problems:

1. Feeding the boltrope into mast slot without jamming. This was solved with an expensive but elegant boltrope feeder ($77) from WM that I'm going to keep on irrespective because it works really well.
2. The damned problem with the halyard catching on the hound throughbolts. This stupid problem plagues me literally every time I raise the main. 100% of the time on or the other of the halyard lines is caught behind the damned hound bolts.

I'm thinking about replacing the hound throughbolts with this:

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... id=1731753

and using the eyebolt holes as fairleads to get the halyard coming down managed to the mast base block. Looks to be a cheap solution that shouldn't affect anything on the hounds in terms of strength.

This doesn't fix the halyard going up, but I can tug on the mainsail from the cabin to clear that. It's the damned down side that I can never get clear.

Anyone see any issues with doing this? I'm still looking for an exact bolt size replacement.

[hartflat]

Ah, reversing the bolts to prevent snags... I think I'll try that. Thanks Terry.

I'm sure that several setups work well & diferent configurations are preferred by others, but as for the Harkin 140 & the ... I couldn't find a similar swivel block without a camcleat & I think the 140 was designed primarily for catamarans. Anyway, I chose not to rely on the the Harkin 140 camcleat since it would (in my case) get in the way & be futile to operate with a dodger between the cockpit & the base of the mast. Also, my main purpose was to set up a system that would run ALL LINES (including a Harkin Reefing line system) to the cockpit & keep me off the deck while under way. Barring any unrelated snags, raising the mainsail with the setup I have is very easy.

Oh, did I forget to mention that sail slugs are a must?

[parrothead]

Oh, did I forget to mention that sail slugs are a must?

I would agree, although I've never used a feeder.

As for the halyard snagging on hound bolts, etc. - simply install a couple of stainless eye straps on the starboard side of the mast and lead the halyard through them on its way down to whatever type of turning block you favor. Two straps should do it.

I've done the same with my spinnaker halyard, which comes down the port side of the mast to a smaller version of the Harken 140, providing - in that case - a "led forward" configuration, so I can hoist the chute in its sock while standing in the open foredeck hatch.

[bscott]

aya16--I have an with a rotating mast but it would work on any boat for someone that wants to work their halyards from the mast or foredeck.

Bob

[Tomfoolery]

Oh, did I forget to mention that sail slugs are a must?

As for the halyard snagging on hound bolts, etc. - simply install a couple of stainless eye straps on the starboard side of the mast and lead the halyard through them on its way down to whatever type of turning block you favor. Two straps should do it.

Another option would be to keep the bolt oriented the way it is, but use an eyenut, and lead the halyard right through it. No extra holes in the mast, either. Not cheap, though, and you'd have to use a jamb nut on the inside to hold the bolt orientation.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... &langId=-1